A Life Update: I'm Alive!

Every so often, I have a sewing question that MUST be answered by someone who has gone before me, and that someone has hopefully written a blog about it somewhere. I'll spend hours trying to remember who it was, or where that post was. Here's the thing: blogs are REALLY powerful. Detailed information that can be referenced, sources cited, detailed research compiled, etc. As I've moved over to Instagram, the reality that information is often shared in little snapshots that are completely gone in 24 hours is deplorable. I really can't get behind Youtube as a great sharing platform either because it just doesn't lend itself well to going down side rabbit holes, or even finding what you're looking for unless there are detailed time stamps. I got sent home from work sick with a cold, and a determination to not waste my home hours on social media when I'm mentally capable of more. I'm desperately missing sharing all my research findings, and even though I try to share on Instagram I know it's not half as useful because it gets lost in the shuffle. I also go down long-winded research rabbit holes that are REALLY interesting, and then nothing comes of it due to time and budget constraints. It's been 5 years between my last blog post and now - I'm a completely different person than I once was. Good thing, too. I now work in the bridal industry doing alterations full time. I didn't intend to sew for a living full time, but it's actually been fun. I had been afraid that sewing all day every day would kill my creative juices, but it's not uncommon for me to come home from a 7 hour day of sewing to then sew for another 1-3 hours later in the evening. With some major life changes, I did take about a 1 1/2 year break, but sewing was constantly on my mind. I missed it terribly, and missed some of the complexities of letting my mind chew on the details of a project throughout the course of the day. I have every intention of letting this blog fizzle officially (I'll leave it up, don't worry!), and transferring all this awesomeness into a new blog in my new name, Parallels of the Past, where I'd like to fill in with ALL the research details, experiments, wins and fails. There's been a lot of them.

2017 In Review

This year has been productive, mostly in the way I planned, although not exactly. I'm holding next year's plans loosely; I have projects planned for the first half of the year, but the 2nd half is unplanned.

In January, I went to the museum and got to experience research first-hand. Lot's of pictures and online research ensued. I started to blog about Neoclassicism (see my post about the Rose-Colored Glasses), but as far as research goes, ideas are hard to pin down. I got derailed almost right after that post was written. I learned a lot, but putting those ideas down with sources is tough because it's been a while.

Photo Credit: Idaho Historical Museum

The Historical Sew Monthly was a complete bust this year. I think I finished two challenges. I didn't forget about it, the challenges just were completely out of what I was working on.

I also got to meet Gina White in person!

Chocolate was such a lamb and SO EXHAUSTED from plunging through 2 foot snow like the unworked maniac she was. Go to Gina's blog to read more about that experience!

In February, I completed my 1860's green plaid evening bodice. I am SO happy with the fit of it, that part turned out perfect. All in all it's not as exciting as a completely new project. As much as I like the bows, I think I may remove the one's on the shoulders for future wearing.

I also completed the Scroop Fantail skirt, which my sister really likes!

Spring was filled with more research than sewing, but in June I started sewing the 1805 dress that was a goal for 2017. It was finished it very quickly; it was a fun project and turned out exactly how I wanted it to. However, I have zero accessories and it's too basic to even photograph without any. So a goal for 2018 is to finish the fichu I started, buy a pair of American Duchess shoes to go with it, and sew a bonnet. I've had the pattern for at least 2 years just sitting around! Here's a preview of the completely hand-sewn ruffles.

In August, I started researching designs for an overdress for the c. 1800 dress I finished last year. The tunic turned out really well; to me, it's not the most amazing thing I've ever sewn, but the photoshoot may be the closest thing to fame I'll ever feel!

I masterminded a project with my sister in September; I won't say I sewed this dress, since she technically did all the actual work, but I drafted the pattern and gave step-by-step instructions. It's basically a replica of the Clio dress; as much as she loves it and all it's graceful twirliness, she had already worn it 4 times, and the armholes had always been really uncomfortable. So it is STILL the dress that never dies, it simply lives on in a different color, with better armholes. Sorry, this is the only picture I have of it!

When asked what she wanted to name it, I think she said, "King Louise XVth." ?!?!

A few months ago, I started volunteering at the Idaho Historical Museum; it's given me the chance to see a LOT of historic garments. Sadly, I can't give any pictures out, because they have a privacy policy.

Another goal for 2017 was to pass on some knowledge in some way; I think I had either online tutorials, or in-person instruction in my mind. I now have a brilliant student, Emily, who has been working with me since June. She's learned how to draft simple patterns, work with a graph, hand-sewing skills like cartridge pleating, techniques like knife-pleating, hand-hemming, darts, piping, binding and corset-making skills like boning, busk-insertion and grommet installation. In 6 months she's sewn a chemise, drawers, corset, ruffled bustle, ruffled petticoat, and now we're working with a really complicated Janet Arnold pattern.

This is just the underskirt, over the bustle and petticoat.

In October, I really wanted a new corset for upcoming later Victorian projects; not that my old one isn't any good, but the bust shaping isn't quite what I want it to be. I've also always wanted a fancy corset. Since it still isn't 100% done (flossing is ALMOST there, and then binding), I'm not going to post any pictures. Also sometime during the year, I finished a lobster tail bustle and petticoat to go over it. The lobster tail bustle might just be my favorite project; it took maybe 10 hours, but it was a ton of fun to make, and it super satisfying to wear! It still needs one more petticoat to hide the ridges.

In 2018, I have plans to attend Costume College! Yay!!!!! So I need to plan outfits to wear there. Most of the undergarments made will be used for dresses this year. I would like to wear the 1805 dress there, but the other 2 dresses that I have planned so far have yet to be started. My list of projects include:

An 1820's corded, bodiced, A-shape petticoat 

1820-29 Petticoat from the V and A

A new Regency chemise (I ripped the sleeves off mine so they wouldn't show, but I need one with sleeves!)

Combination undergarments, and maybe a bustle pad? Both of these things are optional, since I technically have a chemise and drawers I can wear and a bustle pad may not be needed.

Complete dress ensembles are:

An 1879 evening dress, in yellow shot taffeta. I am completely in love with everything natural form. One of my maybe plans from last year was that blue wool natural form dress; as much as I love that design, I honestly love every single 1877-80 design I see. So probably more of that to come either later this year or in 2019.

 December 1879 Peterson's Magazine

An 1825 morning dress in silk, color undetermined (anyone know what Egyptian flame-colour is???)

June 1825 Ladies Monthly Museum

1884 walking dress; I have red wool challis for this project already, but I can't find red and black striped silk! Why!?!** This is a project my friend Tiana and I planned maybe 6 months ago, and that was what initially got me making a new corset and the lobster tail.

1884 Revue de la Mode

An 1860's evening dress in barred turquoise organdy (this was on my to-do list LAST year, sheesh!) **

This design isn't final, but it's about the right color and I LOVE IT! 1862 Les Modes Parisiennes

Accessories:

An 1805 bonnet

November 1807 Ladies Magazine; or something along these lines?

An 1805 fichu (50% finished)

This painting, while undated of Louise Christine Egbertine Francoise Hora Siccama, is a little early for this project, but this style of fichu with the ruche I've seen in portraits dated a little before, and a little after, the 1803-1807 window I've got going.

Maybe a spencer or half-length pelisse to go over the 1805 dress? That's an if-I-have-time project.**

A little blue reticule to go with the 1825 dress

An 1825 lace cap

1884 Bonnet/cap/hat thingy **

** = probably not for Costume College, but hopefully after wards sometime this year.

As much as I would like to make a New Year's resolution about not making any more corsets because they take WAY more time than is warranted, I'm guessing after Costume College I may be inspired to try a new era, so I really am not making any promises. I keep thinking I should branch out of the 1800's (I'm thinking early 1700's at some point), but honestly I could be occupied with the Victorian era my entire life!

While I didn't complete all of my to-do's for 2017, I'm hoping 2018 will be doable, although all the post Costume College projects are questionable and I'm not set on them. I did reach my research goal; I don't know what that was exactly, but I learned A LOT this year. If you want fashion plates, or ideas for fabric, or want the original fashion plate description, come to me! Also a lot on Victorian dress etiquette, which I'm thinking I may turn into a video.

2016 in Review, and 2017 Goals

I am so behind on blogging, I just want to weep and die. Because I really do love blogging, but getting caught up on 8  months of life has felt kind of overwhelming. So consider this a semi-catch up post, and I might go back and include more details on some of the better stuff.

In March, I completed a Regency ball gown for the Victorian ball for my sister Camille.. The fabric was bought in Sept. of 2015, but the Regency ball was canceled. So it was either make a new Regency ball gown to wear, or wear a Civil War ball gown that was really tight the year before. So the Clio dress was born. Camille actually named the dress, "Clio", but in my mind it has been named the Dress that Never Dies. She's worn it several times already with no thought of ever giving it up. No matter what time frame the event is, this is the dress she wants to wear.

This was the first Regency dress where I put some real thought into the physics (ahem, that really means construction) of the flow. What I mean by that is that, I created each layer of the dress (outer sheer, inner solid layer, and a muslin lining layer) to work together instead of get in each other's way. So on the skirt, the muslin layer is really small, the next layer is sort of medium, and then the outer layer was way larger than both so when she twirled they would not conflict. The bodice was made in a similar way, because I wanted the gathers to lay nicely. The more layers you gather at once, the more it puffs out. Camille specificly said, "I don't want to be puffy." So the inner solid layer and the muslin lining was darted together, and then the outer bodice was hand-gathered over it. This dress was for fun, it wasn't a research project or intended to be accurate in any way.  The reason I never got around to posting about it was because I don't have any pictures of her not moving. But that is the best part; this dress looks the best in motion! So here are a few pictures, just so you have idea (on the left in the below picture)

It just sort of floats behind her when she dances!

Every time I see this picture of Camille (with her back to us in this picture) I start freaking out. LOOK AT THAT DRAPE! Am I allowed to fangirl over a dress I made myself?

Between the months of May and June, I finished a pair of long corded Regency stays.  They turned out great, I'm really happy with them. The style is looser than I prefer (they are supposed to be smoothing, not neccesarily crazy shaping), so they are not my absolute favorite to wear. I like my corsets really tight. It just feels good to me. 

For the tucks and pleats challenge in February, I intended to finish my 1863 green plaid. Instead....it got done in July for Costume College! I hit a wall on the fitting, and just could not bring myself to fix it in a timely manner. In the end, I super love the dress, and it looks amazing! The fitting errors are invisible, which is code for the dress is really really tight. So not neccesarily an error, just a matter of comfort. It was based on a CDV, and it is very, very accurate. The only thing I can think of that is not accurate is I did not bother to research the buttons I used.

During August and September, I made a dotted sheer 1860's dress for Camille. This was her first higher-fashion dress, and she needed a hoop skirt to go under it. So the hoop was made too; that took like an afternoon. This was also the project that got sadly derailed from what I preferred, but only because of conflicting desires. I wanted to re-make this fashion plate, but Camille wanted a jewel-neck and long sleeves. Oh, and no ruffles. And the bretelles are a no-go, they look too babyish. This was also Camille's first dress where I agreed to make a significant drop in the skirt length. She felt super grown up in her longer skirt, hoop and awesome bonnet. The green trim on the skirt and the belt was taffeta from the garment district. These are probably the worst pictures ever....but her hooped silhouette is still super cute.

In October, I started a research project on Neoclassicism, to go along with the Regency gown I wanted to make. I picked an original I liked, and with all the undergarments complete I set out to cross off a bucket list project: hand-sew an entire dress. Normally, a Regency dress takes me somewhere between 20-25 hours. Using entirely different techniques, mockups from scratch, and the handsewing, the projected time frame was 30-35 hours. It took me like 20 hours. Easy peasy! I have plans to get pictures taken professionally, once I am not broke.

 The only reason I include this picture is because of my hair....super awesome tutorial to come. Based on the Kaufman head from the Louvre.

I took a couple commissions this year; that was new, and also fun. I made a pair of Regency stays for a friend, and instead of making it corded I used a stiffer fabric and a little bit more boning. Within the pattern, there is the theatrical version, and the historically accurate corded version. This was a pretty easy 20 hour project; the corded pair I made myself took waaaayyyy longer (like 35 hours, 75% of that on the cording). Next time I will go straight for the theatrical version, although there were a couple differences in the fitting on the theatrical one that were a little weird.

The other commission work I did was I made a riding habit shirt for a side-saddle riding friend, and also a gypsy headpiece for a costume class.

Some goals for next year:

An 1805 day dress

C. 1800-1810 gown from August Auctions

An 1860's green plaid ball bodice

c. 1860 Ball gown from the Museum of Fine Arts

An 1860's Sheer dress with an evening and day bodice

C. 1860 original gown saved from Ebay

A full set of Civil war undergarments 

An 1863 bonnet or hat (my poor head has been bare)

Impart some sewing knowledge to someone else

Make a dress from an entirely new decade. 

On this last one, I'm thinking either natural form (finally!), or 1750's settler to honor my g-g-g-g-g-g-g grandmother Howe, who was kidnapped by Abenaki Indians along with her 5 children.

1881 dress from the MET

Picture depicting Jemima being sold by her (as the story goes) drunk Indian captor to a Frenchman.

2015 Year in Review

My sewing this year has been super productive, and also pretty successful. Lots of learning experiences, but I'd also say there has been an all time low percentage of flunks. Go figure.

Here are some of the highlights and favorite projects:

White sheer: Seriously, I am in love with that dress. It's so comfortable and light, and the fit is just perfect. I still need a different corset cover. I've also spent a good amount of time wearing it, and it has proven to be the perfect summer wear. Still not crazy about the glare that comes off that thing, but oh well. Not really my problem, as I'm not the main person looking at it.

Between projects, I worked pretty hard at complicated mock ups and troubleshooting. Those went pretty well and took up a lot of time, although because they're just sheets sewn together there isn't really anything to show for it.

Penelope Lumley Dress: This dress turned out pretty good, although probably not one of my more interesting costumes.

This girls dress turned out very well, but it's been worn a lot this year and hasn't held it's color very well. The once bright blue little strip is pretty faded from multiple washings, but Camille can't seem to not get dirty in it.

My biggest accomplishment this year has been completing my first corset. And then wearing it out and making a better one.

#1

#2

I tried my hand at millinery this year. Not a favorite research topic, but interesting and rather necessary. It is also really time consuming and difficult; I have never had appreciation for people who are good at it until now. 

I've made enough undergarments to make me shudder; mundane things that take up way too much of my time. Getting them out of the way is nice, but the idea of starting a new time period and sewing an entire new wardrobe of boring white things is dreadful; maybe that is why they are called unmentionables.

Here are a list of the things I made for the Historical Sew Monthly challenges; some were interesting, some weren't.

#1: Foundations - I pushed myself to finish my first corset. It had been almost done for quite a while, but getting it out of the way was awesome. 

#2: Blue - this blue belt was probably the only flop of all of them; it fits, alright, but only over my undergarments. Not over the dress.

#3: Stashbusting - this chemise has been really handy, although I would like to try a real yoked chemise this year.

#4: War and Peace - my favorite completed project! This white sheer is really comfortable.

#5: Practicality - Slat sun bonnet; a little boring, but very practical and I like it alright.

#6: Out of Your Comfort Zone - my first attempt at cording turned out pretty good, I think. I still can't believe how quickly I finished this project, compared to a more fitted corset.

#7: Accessorize - this bonnet is really pretty, but I'm kind of only okay on wearing it. I didn't put enough research into it, and will hopefully rip it apart this year and make a more accurate one. This was my favorite fabric to work with, nothing can describe the color!

#8: Heirlooms and Heritage - by far the most lame thing I entered for a challenge, but definitely worn a lot!

http://mysoulisfedwithneedleandthread.blogspot.com/search/label/Historical%20Sew%20Monthly

#9: Brown - I know I'll get lots of use out of this, usually portraying a laundress, but I have yet to wear it.

#10: Sewing Secrets - I was so preoccupied that month, I didn't enter anything!

#11: Silver Screen - I love this little garment, it's really pretty.

#12: Redo - the most hard-worked on project, it fits into several past challenges.

Here are some plans for 2016! I am looking forward to challenging myself more and more. The most complicated project I hope to accomplish is a Natural form day dress. I wouldn't particularly have chosen this era, but I got one of Jennifer Rosbrugh's classes over at Historical Sewing for Christmas. Whenever the class runs, I'll use that to give me a push.

I also got the Regency corset class for Christmas; I don't really know when I'll get around to making the dress, but there will probably be a Regency ball in September. I may or may not get it done in time, I do have something else to wear just in case.

Another white dotted sheer dress is on my list of things to do relatively quickly (before May), but first a hoop skirt!

I've had the materials to re-make this Regency dress for some time, but Camille wanted to put it off once the Regency ball was canceled. She's growing pretty fast, so she wanted to wait until a little closer to the next event before I started it. I don't intend it to be accurate, all the materials are polyester, but it will be very pretty!

I've finally started that gigantic plaid! Yay! That'll be done sometime this month or the next. But....I just discovered that the plaid is printed, not woven. See that little swoop at the end of the selvedge? Argghh. The quality of the fabric alone isn't great, it has a number of unavoidable flaws. I don't think I will buy from this seller again. Despite the fabric problems, I'm still excited to have another project to work on. Coming up very soon...Dogleg closure tutorial!

At some point, I need to work a little more on a complete undergarment wardrobe for someone else, that has been held off way too long.

I've been trying to calculate how many hours everything is going to take, and I'm afraid I'm not going to get everything done this year that I would like. But at the same time, it feels like most of these things are a must. How do I decide?!?